Wintering a Mini Hive

Wintering Mini Bee Colonies

Feral colonies around us in trees and structures can be considerably smaller than traditional Langstroth colonies.  Warre understood this when he developed his remarkable hive at the turn of the 20th century.  Each region will have it's variation in adaptation for a beekeeper.  Some regions may have the potential of a huge honey crop, however they may also have a long bitterly cold winter. Other regions, like Utah, averages about 30 lb per colony per year, but has a short winter.  In Utah, winter usually begins in mid-December and is over by mid-February.   Even though winter may have not begun or is over, doesn't mean resources are available to the honey bee colony.  Summer and fall robbing may have depleted the colony's resources, as well as droughts, storms and other natural issues that affect forage and other habitat qualities. So on to the Mini Urban Beehive,..what do I do to help "my babies" prepare for and successfully over-winter?  This question is asked of me so often that here is my blog post regarding it.



The little beehive began with usually 2 frames or more of varying brood, 3-5 days later a queen cell appeared, and later still was capped then hatched.  This local queen then mated in your neighborhood with perhaps up to 15 drones. This queen then returned to her colony and began laying off-spring.  During this period the new colony was fed supplemented sugar syrup and protein supplements.

At this time the external entrance feeder was regularly filled, the lower entrance completely closed with the upper entrance the only entrance for the bees to use and defend.  A problem occurred with the metal entrance feeders, as we saw the lids had too many holes in them and the way the feeder was made, allowed for leaking thus robbing.  The entrance feeder was changed to a solid block feeder and still the remainder of the lower entrance closed off.  At this point, not only issues with dripping feeders caused problems, but poor inspections where dropped honey and comb, or internally leaking honey or nectar, also could cause a robbing environment.  This type of problem exists with traditional hives as well as all non-traditional hives, such as top-bars and Warre.  Anytime honey is permitted to be left laying around or leaking from a hive, robbing by other bees, wasps, ants, rodents can occur. My advice is to keep your hive and area clean, this creates a safe habitat for your "babies".


Keep upper entrance open and cleared

Okay, now how to prepare for winter!  This will vary in each region, but I will post tips for you to consider.

Many will point fingers at the usual threat of the varroa mite, but the vary nature of how the colony began with rearing it's own queen and being broodless for a time broke the mite cycle.  Mites are introduced to colonies thru foragers and robbing bees.  The young beehive does not have either initially.  The threat of a robber coming in, may bring in mites.  Either way, the first season mites are not an issue.  A fall or early winter treatment of oxalic acid is a possibility, but due to the size of the hive, I suggest less dosage.  Further study is needed as well as how other mite treatments are to be applied to a mini colony.  The oxalic acid drizzle method is also an option and simple to apply.

Use oxalic with all recommended safety precautions.  Oxalic Acid recommendations are,:

Dribble method 1:1 sugar to warm water mixture, and 5mls per seam on a standard frame or a 1/3 that (1 1/2 mls) per mini seam.

Spraying with a mist is also acceptable with swarms and packages with the same 1:1 solution listed above. 

1 gram is acceptable with the vaporization method with a Mini

Wintering a colony in Oregon

Winter may be extremely cold and long for some.  My original advice was if feral colonies exist in your area in trees, then so can the Mini Urban Beehive.  Now I take it a step further, and suggest when days get below 32 degrees fahrenheit, it can be easily lifted and placed into a dark cold storage, or shed.   The ideal external temperature needs to be about 40 degrees fahrenheit, or lower.  If the temperature is higher, the bees will want and need to fly, for cleansing and forage.  If the colony is placed into a garage, the potential of it getting above 50 degrees is possible and the issue with most garages having a window, poses the threat of drawing the bees to a place they never return from.  Dark and about 40 degrees.  In areas like Canada, a cool shed of -10 is better than outdoors at -40!

Mini Candy Board, or Fondant for winter feeding

Some want a blanket for their hives, Eco Bee Box does have adjustable blanket covers that allow for access from both the top and lower entrances.  In areas like Oregon, the threat is moisture.  The colony has to stay dry during the winter months.  Placing a candy board on the top of the hive will draw out some moisture, but is limited.  Putting a box filled with cedar shavings with a screen under it, on top of your hive, will draw out more moisture, but still may need to be checked and resupplied with new dry material.

How many boxes are needed for a mini colony to survive the winter?  Here in Utah I have taken single mini boxes thru the winter.  Others with no experience have neglected a double mini colony in Utah and still survived in Utah.  The goal is two or more mini boxes for Utah, other states may vary.

I believe and suggest an upper candy board for both winter feeding and simple moisture control.  Bees eat and digest crystalized sugars during winter, NOT LIQUID SYRUPS.  If too much uncrystallized honey exists, moisture may be an issue during winter.  Some tricks to consider for fall and winter are as follows.

If you have drawn comb in fall that is empty, two options exist.  One, mix up a 2 parts sugar to 1 part water (I always add supplements by Complete Bee), get a syringe from the pharmacy and fill the cells.  Place into the hive, the bees will move it as it has not been modified by the bee yet and needs their gut enzymes added and dehydrated.  Another method is to mix up candy, and put it into the empty cells.  My full recipe is 12 cups cane sugar, 3/4 cup water, 2 caps of Complete.  Once completely mixed, put into a candy board, or empty drawn frames.  Let dry over night, and then are ready to use.

During fall and late summer, if the colony is strong, I allow a finger sized opening at the bottom entrance.  In winter, the lower and upper entrances need to be open for ventilation and cleansing flights.  During winter bees naturally will die and drop in the hive, if left unattended to, this will clog the bees ability to get out and they WILL die.  Regularly clean out the debris from blocking the lower entrance.

Eco Bee Box Winter Beehive Blanket

If you have a large Langstroth hive, I suggest for preparing for winter, drilling a pinky sized hole thru the center of all your frames, so the bees can recluster all winter.  The threat I regularly see is bees remain on separate frames eating honey and absorbing heat from the next frame.  They don't move away from their heat source, and starve even though honey stores are all around them.  Giving them a central access point allows them to recluster all winter. If the hole is drilled too soon in fall, the bees will close it, do this as they last inspection.

Winter Beehive Blanket allows for bee flights, but gives extra warmth where needed

Lower entrance open for passage!